December 2024

Flying the flag at the Christmas fairs of two prep schools and one at Ramsbury Brewery.  One father at Cheam approached the stand and said that with 4 children in private school he could not afford to buy our wine so instead bought two champagne stoppers for £10!

At Ramsbury Brewery, a lady approached the stand and asked if we sold still red wine.  We said only sparkling. ‘Why?’ she asked. Largely because England is not hot enough to make serious still pinot noir and chardonnay – with some exceptions. She asked to try our brut. After a few sips, she exclaimed, ‘Nay, not for me’ and strode off.  Clearly there are still hearts and minds to win over.

Tribute to Robert Louth

Robert, my great friend and ex-vineyard partner, died peacefully at home on Christmas Eve after a long illness. He was a one-off (and I mean it) and it leaves a gaping hole in the lives of his family and his many friends. I will be posting a full tribute in February.

In 2012, he also persuaded me, after one too many sundowners, that growing vines on my paddocks would be more fun that having sheep graze. How right he was.

And, of course, typically, Robert taught himself to be a first-class viticulturist, using his knowledge of agriculture, horticulture, and medicine to tend vines in a marginal climate.   Between us – a couple of middle-aged amateur enthusiasts with green fingers – we managed to plant a boutique vineyard at Winding Wood from scratch that grew into something very special, winning many accolades and medals for our sparkling wines.  What a great 10-year partnership that turned out to be. It was his crowning glory. It gave me enormous pleasure in September, and indeed it did Robert also, to have him sitting in the front row of the audience for the launch of my book which told the unabridged story of our partnership of blood, sweat…. and tears of nectar.

Dosage trials

One Sunday at midday in early December Leonie, Polly and I gathered in the barn to blind taste samples of the Brut 2020, Brut 2021 and Brut Rosé wines which Daniel Ham had disgorged and prepared with various levels of dosage for us to decide upon.

We are looking for the ideal sugar/acid profile.

We worry less about the nose at this stage as this will change when the wine is left ‘on cork’ after the dosage is added and the cork inserted.

Dosage is the addition of a small amount of dissolved sugar at disgorging – when the sediment from the second fermentation is expelled from the bottle. This is an additional tool in the winemaker’s toolbox and one aspect that helps create the style of the wine. Thus, a key area of traditional method sparkling wine.

The sugar is dissolved with wine, and this liquid is called liqueur d’expédition. It may be topped up with the same wine or it may be reserve wines which can further assist the wine. If sugar is added and the wine maker uses the same wine to top up the bottle then you have a zero dosage wine. Many biodynamic sparklers are zero dosage.

These are some of the comments we made.

Brut 2020

Bottle 419 – sensational. More baked apple than green apple reflecting extra time on lees? Bottle 585 – great long and tingling finish. This we discover is 5.5g/l. ‘Bit confected on the palate’ says Daniel. Equally fab but less knock-out nose. Finish v good – long and lean.

Bottle 127 – Okay but our least favourite of the three @ 4.5g/l. It is Daniel and Nicola’s choice interestingly.

They suggest 5g/l or go with 127 @ 4.5g/l

Brut Reserve 2021

50% Chardonnay and 50 % Pinot. There is a struck match taste to them. And a bit longer on lees needed. Not quite up to the B2020. Don’t worry says Daniel, there is a nutty palate and will get lot better.

Brut Rosé 2022

90% Pinot Noir with 10% red wine (PN 50%, PM 50%)

Bottle 602 – 4gm fab nose, powerful, like ‘Carmen on stage in her red dress’.

Bottle 588 – 5gm lower dosage? Fab but slightly more acid kick – This is Daniel’s choice as customers will look for one with a bit more sugar.

Bottle 938 – least favourite. Highest dosage? 6gm

We select 588@ 5g/l